the oven shuts off on low fan only intermittently. If you wait 10 minutes it starts back up. Any recommendations
Hey do u mean sho-100 I don’t see the model# u wrote.
The model number is slightly scratched off...Could be SH1G/AB or 5H1G/AB
I hate these ovens they are always intermittent.
is ur intermittent issue the heat or the complete oven shuts off for 10 min?
One of the issues I find with these ovens are bad grounding.
-Check the plug end first people seem to crack it off (lol) . Then the grounding wire by the bottom of the door close to igniter . Pull on those wires the terminals rust off because water sits there wen they wash the oven.
-Take out flame sensor and clean, also the wire going to flame sensor gets rusty at terminal not sensing flame.
-Possibly ignition module it self is going bad.
I just looked it seems there are a few threads about the Blodget oven . Go check them out.
they might help u out.
Blodgett convection oven heats up to temperature and maintains it for about two hours and then it shuts off
Thanks for the check points! Grounds are clean, fan was reasonably clean, very clean now. Door switch works properly. Flame sensor good. Now sometimes will fire on high but not low, then on low and not high never the same sequence? Do you think the high/low switch is the problem?
I think we are all not sure wat u mean by “fire up”
does the fan turn on at all? When u put the switch to low does the “fan” turn on ?
Or is ur fan turning on but “flame” not turning on?
Neither the fan or the spark ignition sparks when its not working in low or
high position. More often it will start in the high speed position but not
is this ur switch? sounds like some electric issue possibly switch. its very hard to diagnose any intermittent issue. look at all wires going into terminal blocks and connectors.
So here is where I am at with this %#& oven...It is a SHO-G . New hi/lo and new door switch, didn't change anything. Oven cooling fan works on any settings when you turn the switch on on either hi or low. Fan is clean. Grounds are clean. Flame rod is clean. Convection fan works on either setting. Sometimes burners come on and sometime not. When it does not have burners come on, Spark ignition will spark for a long time then time out. Switch to hi or low and it sometimes fire up. I don't want to continue changing parts as this is my son's business and money is tight..any other suggestions before I change anything else out?
Now you are starting to convey information as to the problem. We heard different things from your previous post's. If your burner control is crating spark, then it should also be opening the gas valve. So take your digital volt ohm meter and check the gas vale as to does it have continuity and is it getting the right voltage from the ignition system. 24 VAC
Verify that it has the proper valve for your gas, whether natural or LP.
Verify the the main valve and pilot valve are wired correctly.
.Verify that the gas valve is fully open. Both main and gas valve.
Your Fenwall control creates spark and opens the pilot valve. Pilot has to light for it to power the main valve. This is proofed by flame rectification Through the flame rod and burner ground. The test for that is in micro amps, and can be measured with a quality DVOM. Ussually below 10 microamps DC
You may want to measure the gas pressure with a manometer both to the oven and at the burner. The check the pilot flame quality. We commonly see dirty flame rods and low pilot. Remove, clean and replace the pilot before changing the adjustment. They commonly get dirty and no longer mix properly.
Most of us on here are not fans of just replacing parts without knowing if they are a problem.
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote: Neither the fan or the spark ignition sparks when its not working in low orhigh position. More often it will start in the high speed position but notalways..
That's pertly much door switch or timer./ controller. If the convection fan does not come on, you need to check the door switch or the cook control. Be it timer, or computer control. Being we don't know your accrual model, I can't be much more help. Check your wiring schematic fastened to the oven to trace it. You have been giving us conflicting information. Break out you DVOM and check the curcuits that control the blower power. No blower, no flame..
Motor capacitor. If somewhat failing, will start when cold, but after heating up, will fail to start motor and then overheat the motor.
Sounds like you need to check the centrifugal safety switch in the motor. It is used as a burner safety to protect the oven from warp-age and overheat.
If it was the high/low switch the fan wouldn't even run in the bad position.
The SH series of ovens have a multitude of control systems. I don't find a SH1, so I'm not sure whether you have a control board cooling fan, system. It sounds like your getting a overheat trip that comes back on after cooling. But to be sure, check of the door switch. It also will do this as the oven gets heat saturated.
Being it only happens on low, make sure to check the rear vent and motor vents to be clean.
> Being it only happens on low, make sure to check the rear vent and motor vents to be clean.
Without a doubt.
I've had that with the switch being bad, sometimes it would be on, sometimes it wouldn't,
Try to slowly move the switch from high to low and see if it acts weird, I've had it with the On/Off/Cool switch before.
I have one BIG question. Why are they cooking with low fan?
Up in Massachusetts, we had a customer with a six bank of dfg-100s. This place was famous for it's puff pastries. They'd fill large muffin tins with some high-sugar mix, and cook em up. They had to run the blower on slow otherwise when the pastries puffed up and over the top, they'd come out lop-sided.
Man, those dfgs took a beating with all the sugar in vapor form. You'd cut your fingers changing out a motor as the oven cavity had millions of short spikes of hardened baked sugar.
Made a pile of money on those units, as they *had* to run.
Sounds like they should have gone with a roll in oven
As I understand it, the puffs were a little culinary afterthought originally. They took off like, err, hotcakes. The kitchen was set up to do a lot of banquets and functions, thus the number of ovens. You could drive a car through the place.
They had dirty propane also. The central steamtable was lp, and the single-hole pilots would clog up in a couple of weeks. I stopped that with 2-hole orifices and small inline filters.
Interesting. It wasn't the gas, but someone either used old lines or weren't clean on install. Or installed properly to code. Like pushing it through a gypsum wall without a cap. The only thing one normally finds in propane is a Graphite powder from the vane pumps used to pump it. But it's always on the bottom of the tank. Unless they are using small bottles and caring them sideways. A big no no. Was the line onto the table vertical from the top, a Tee, and 6 inch capped nipple for moisture and dirt?
I don't recall the exact gas piping to this unit, as it was, like, 25 years ago. The Restaurant had been in business for decades, and was a house before that for probably a century. Nice place. Up on the side of a mountain. With real professional chef-type people in the kitchen, dress whites and tall caps. You'd more-or-less have to announce yourself when entering the kitchen. The head chef was also a part owner of the place. Knew him for years.
I just noticed I mistyped up there (Don't get old, kids!)- I solved the issue by going to a stamped steel type of orifice with a single, larger hole, instead of the aluminium two smaller hole orifice. And with the inline filter it never gave any more problems.
Makes one wonder if the unit may have been on coal gas at some point. Now there is where I've seen a lot of dust and crud in the lines. Saratoga Springs was one of the last to leave coal gas. I blew out a line on a reinstall once not knowing that it was previously coal gas. Big cloud of dirt everywhere.
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