you may find you pipe sizing is too small to allow the volume of gas through to the main burner vto light correctly. This can be caused by having to large a load requirement on your pipe system, too small a gas metewr or regulator to pass enough gas.
Most gasfitting manuals have pipe sizing tables as well recommended pipe size for the type of appliance. Read appliance rating plate to determine the gas usage in mj. then calculate the pressure and pressure drops for bends or tees then calculate gas type pipe sise required. Also check your regulator pressure before main burner and at burner head test point. good luck
As said here over and over…and over again, “A model number sure would help us - help you.”
I'll proceed under the assumption that your fryer has been in place and working properly for awhile - so the building's gas lines aren't an immediate concern just yet. That certainly is an important factor, but I would look at the actual fryer FIRST.
Also, I'll assume that nobody has tampered with the pilot adjuster screw in the gas valve.
NOW...I’m gonna take a guess that your Frymaster has a target burner like in this Youtube video I made awhile back:
On these fryers, there’s a standing pilot. That pilot performs two functions:
1. The pilot flame heats a thermopile
2. The pilot flame lights the main burner when there’s a call for heat.
Consider that the pilot’s flame quality is crucial for sustaining itself, since poor gas or air flow to IT makes the pilot flame weaker and more vulnerable to being blown out by air turbulence. Also consider that a weaker pilot flame also reduces the amount of heat the flame produces – the very same heat necessary for the thermopile to generate adequate DC output voltage to the valve(s).
A typical pilot burner remains lit 24/7. As with ANY gas burner, a 10:1 air-to-gas ratio is needed for its strong, blue flame. In other words, for every one-cubic-foot of gas, it needs ten-cubic-feet of air…to sustain that perfect flame. Any less air or gas would be detrimental to the flame’s intensity.
Air is dirty - ESPECIALLY in a kitchen. Impurities in the air supplying the pilot burner will eventually build up stuff inside the pilot burner – thus blocking the flow of air or gas to the flame.
That's my in telling you how it works.
So NOW I’ve typed a SCREEN-full of details to hopefully help you understand that the pilot burner…and maybe even the main burner orifices – might need to be cleaned.
To clean the pilot yourself, a strong blast of compressed air right at and into the UNLIT pilot burner might be all that it needs. Relight it and see if there's any improvement.
Otherwise, I suggest calling a technician to do any more. The main burners might need cleaning too. Undertaking the task of removing that horse-shoe shaped target burner assembly isn’t something a do-it-yourselfer should attempt.
If you wish, you can also request that the trained and qualified technician you choose to hire proceeds with scrutinizing whether your building's gas supply is up the mechanical standards necessary to meet the needs of your kitchen.
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