I have it apart but there doesnt seem to be a way to get the drive off. ive tried both clockwise and counter. is there a trick that im missing?
I did some reading about replacing the drive coupling on a Waring MX 1050 XTP. It seems this is a rather hard piece to replace. Some comments suggested the drive clutch was easier to replace using their coupling wrench: Waring 503351 MX COUPLING WRENCH | Parts Town
However, some others suggest they were completely unable to remove the part. Since none of the success comments mentioned left-handed threads, I would say this is a standard thread. Counter clockwise to remove.
In any case, you'll need some elbow grease to get it done.
I hope you'll consider joining us here on TechTOWN and letting others who come after you and experience the same issue know how you fared removing the drive clutch on your Waring blender!
Note the coupling actually has two metal parts encased in a hard rubber/plastic. The metal toothed part that engages the pitcher is separate from the metal bushing that threads onto the motor. Mine was slipping around the bushing that threads onto the motor, so there was no way to easily remove the old part.1. Cut 4 cuts with a hacksaw through the upper rubber part, next to the metal part that engages the pitcher.2. Break all of the rubber/plastic apart, leaving only the metal bushing threaded onto the motor. There is now no way to easily get to the metal bushing.3. Disassemble the whole blender. Remove the feet, the blender bottom case, a plastic insert, pull the circuit board out of the plastic insert. Disconnect the black and blue wires from the motor to the circuit board (mark on the board which one goes where). Then the motor can be removed.4. Remove the top metal plate from the motor.5. Now you can put vise grips on the busing, and (carefully) hold the fan on the other end of the motor to remove the bushing. It comes off counter-clockwise, like a regular bolt. 6. Put the whole thing back together. I used anti-seize on the motor threads before installing the new coupling, then sealed the top with a dab of silicone so liquids don't get down in the threads.
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