It has a ice thickness control probe how do you a just it
Before adjusting it, one should make sure it is clean and the machine is functioning normal. Sometimes the minerals get built up on the probe and can conduct enough current for a false reading to the board. This is true with all machines that use the sensor plate, but especially with Scotsman and Manitowic.
If the ice plate has a problem or the machine is under charged it will also sense late.The ice will be thick on the bottom and thin on top at the sensor
Well, I am going to guess because I don't know the unit nor have I ever seen one.
On Scotsman's units, there is a little piece of stainless steel mounted on a hinged piece of plastic, it sits right on the evaporator where the ice is built. Depending how far out the stainless is, determines your thickness as when the ice touches, it grounds through the evaporator so to speak and tells the board its ready to harvest.
So if you can access the evaporator you will see it dangling in front of the evaporator.
I would be surprised if its any different for another unit, because that's a really simple, reliable way to do it.
I'm not familiar with Scotsmans that do that, but five years have passed since I worked on ANY ice machines. Scotsman's CM3s used a float switch instead of a thickness probe.
Manitowocs are still like olivero said...as far as I know. The desired bridge thickness is 1/8". To crudely gauge that, I've used (or once used) a 3/16" Allen wrench as a thickness measurement tool to preset ice bridge thickness. Stick that little wrench in there in between the sensor and the evaporator plate, then adjust accordingly to 3/16". Then I'd let her rip to observe the subsequent ice harvests and tweak that little screw from there when it wasn't . Again, the desired ice bridge thickness is 1/8". You can use a tape measure...or a micrometer to measure that.
If ice production is being inconsistent, then the ice thickness control (that metal paddle-looking thingie) might be tainted with scale or something. I've tried cleaning those when that happened, but it never did help. A new ice thickness probe generally ends up being the only solution.
Its really just a grounding rod in some fashion. I've sanded them with high grit sand paper before and made em work again. Its just a metal surface, nothing fancy.
All the ice machines I have are Scotsman, I have 4 of them and they all have the type of thickness sensor I mentioned. Those are probably from about 2009 or 2010 maybe later.
The trick is to use vinegar and a swab to not clean the metal, but to clean the plastic base and rinse it off. The swing base starts conducting due to mineral build up. You have to rinse the vinegar and dry for the same reason. Acids are conductive too.
I found a manual covering the Manitowoc Ice Q130/Q170/Q210/Q270 at this link
On page 14, it tells you how to adjust ice thickness for your Manitowoc Ice unit.
The issue might not be in the ice bridge thickness if your ice is thinner than it used to be, you may need to descale and sanitize the unit.
Remember, ambient temperatures will affect your unit's ability to make ice. The heat in my building was set very high recently and it noticeably affected the ice.
I should clarify what I mean by ice plate problem. The plates on ice machines have the tubing soldered to the back of the plate. Sometimes the fillet between the tube and plate has enough gap that water can get into it and the freeze cycle works over the years to increase that gap, or deform the tube to the point it breaks the tube loose from the plate. Over the years I've seen this twice and it usually means a new head. The cost and availability of the ice plate is just to high to replace, let alone that at this point the frame usually is rusted bad. What you will see is a upper corner or top row now making ice yet the tail coil is fully frozen. I never investigated as to why water got on the back of the plate, buy I suspect over spray from the bar and a poor seal at the top behind the spray bar.
Also u can place a nickel between the probe and evap coil. Thats the correct thickness to run properly
A nickel is about 1/8 th inch. That is the wanted thickness of the bridge, But you also have the water thickness and movement. The actual distance off the plate bridge is closer to 3/16 ths or 1/4 th. If you set the dimension at 1/8th the machine will trip out on fault due to sensing current before the minimum time to make ice. Most machine don't use the sensor till at least 5 min. into the cycle If it sees current at that mark it will set a fault. A lot of the machines today have a LED on the board that you can see the contact. Flashing is ok from splash, but when it goes constant it will go into harvest after a set delay.(different with manufacturers.)
Yeah, it has to be grounded for a certain amount of time before it will act on it.
8 seconds in a Mani.
7.5 in a scotsman......
I need a dump down valve for the Q210
What are you calling a dump down valve. There is no water dump valve, so your either are calling a hot gas bypass valve or the float valve. Depending on serial number and age, they used both Danfoss and Alco for harvest valves.
This is the parts manual;
These are the 3 possible valves in a Q210;
Let us know if this helps.
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