not sure what you want here, everything was in the previous line.
Stainless terminals? I am guessing you mean stainless crimps which I have never encountered.
Just crimp it? I Don't know what answer you are looking for but when I have to crimp connections I solder them on, over time, the crimp can weaken and a loose connection develops, then the component melts aand your back here again.
I Don't know if you can solder those crimps but I certainly would if possible, crimp the wire and then solder it.
First off, Klien has many different crimp tools. If you have a tool that will not let you release until you crimp fully, and has changeable dies for insulated and non-insulated terminals, you have a quality tool that will crimp to factory specs. Make sure that the wire is clean and properly stripped. The wire you are describing is silver coated to prevent oxidation at high temperatures. All high temp terminals are um-insulated and plated to prevent oxidation. The big problem is the tab on the end of the heater. some are silver coated, but many are not. Wire brush the surface with a brass wire brush and replace the high temp screw if it is discolored. For Non-insulated terminals, I prefer a stake crimp over compression. It has a pin in the middle that makes the terminal wire into a U shape after crimping and has more contact area than a straight squeeze type.. Yes I know that the dies are $30 a pair,and handles are $80, but if you want a quality crimp it is required..FYI, I have 4 hand tools (Paladin with 8 different dies) and one Hydraulic (Square D) and went through the learning curve on high amp, high temp. Especially 10,000 watt lamps connectors and power source problems.
You make me look like a hack Fixbear....
sorry, wasn't my intent. With all the inferior quality electric crimps on the market now, One has to be careful.. They are the one electrical item that does not have to have a UL rating or NEC approval because it can be used in other than electrical appliances.
No worries, I know it wasn't your intent
Really? I thought everything in the world of electrical had a UL or NEC or at least an NFPA rating
If they are being used in a coded appliance, they should be boughten with a certification. problem is the market is now flooded with discount terminals that are not certified and available from all kinds of sources. I preffer to buy AMP because they provide full specs on there terminals and most meet Mil spec. 75 to 80 percent do not meet Mil spec and in high load conditions cause a problem. But corrosion and oxidation on existing wires and mounts create the resistance that then makes for a failure down the road. I have seen wires that you have to cut back more than 6 inches to get to bright copper. Usually means new wire and replacement of the connecting piece.
Yup, seen it too.
In my opinion not based on scientific facts or approvals or goat skins. If its soldered, its good.
I am sure there are exceptions but just through experience, the bad connectors can be made okay with a bit of solder, much like press fittings in plumbing, heat stress, thermal expansion and contraction and all those wonderful variables make it too easy for things to fail.
Last time I had a safety turn into a small arc ball and explode I figured it was probably due to loose connections inside of it which could have been caused by the bad crimps on the connectors on the outside which overheated them since they all had their insulation smoked so I started soldering them and away most of the problems went.
Wire nuts oh don't even get me started! I hate wire nuts, solder and shrink tubing beats a wire nut any day of the week. I carry around a double head butane torch lighter as my lighter, I use it to solder wire so its much more convenient than lugging the iron around and plugging it in and not dropping it on the floor or forgetting about it, that definetley makes a difference for me.
I agree on the solder, 95/5 is high temp but a bit fussy on fluxing. I carry a rosin pen and fiberglass terminal cleaner with a butane tool that can cut and weld plastic, act as a soldering iron, heat gun or open torch. Back in the early 70's I had problems with corrosion at electrical connections (salt). Found a shrink tube that made a gel fit to solve the problem and a special grease for the connectors. I have had 580 v 500 amp disconnects short from fog and make a nice fireball. Seen a 480 panel blow a 2 ft hole thru it due to the lack of cleaning and high humidity. And the greatest one was a operator flipping a 5 stage switch on a large motor staight to 5. Took out all electrical on a wall 70 ft long, 580 volt system 1000 amp direct off 33,000 v substation with no meter. Took 4 of us 3 weeks to replace enough to get the plant back operational. Had a fixed power cost, to start the plant every day they called the power company and got the ok for the grid. $1900 per day if you operated a hour or 24..
Wow, that sounds crazy...
Anybody got hurt? Seems like that operator would get fired for that one....
No one hurt, operator was a temp while the normal one was on vacation. But we did go thru $150,000 in electrical gear.
Sheesh, that sucks.
Speaking of soldered terminals, how about 5 lb's of solder to make up one plug. four wires, plus a ground trace, Appleton 250 amp, 600 volt with toggles to draw in the plug and 1/2 inch pipes 12 inches long that you screwed into the plug for handles to remove it. Solid state motor starter, . GGC 250 cable.
Thank you both for the info. I think I'll try soldering the next one and check out the electrical wholesaler for the proper crimpers.
They are a ratcheting crimp-er with adjustable tension and separate dies. They have dies for phone and data, coaxial, and both open and closed wire crimps. If you ever have to repair any Molnex plugs, that requires the open crimper. The ears get rolled over and down into the wire and insulation. Electronix supply house's have the fiberglass cleaner and rosin flux pens. Primarily made for board repairs.
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