elements check out okay
What does "on the one side" mean?
What are the fuses for?
I haven't a clue where your fuses are geographically. If you say they're "on the one side", I've nothing to verify or contradict that.
From the unit's schematic, I DO see where fuses are ELECTRICALLY. According to the schematic, there are three fuses - one for each input line to the contactor feeding the heating elements. Within this manual is a schematic. Probably the same schematic that's affixed to a panel within the machine's control box:
So the fuses blow every two weeks? ALL of them...or just one here and, two weeks later, another one?
You said the "elements check out okay." So you've verified that they have proper resistance, proper input voltage, proper amp draw and no indication of insulation breakdown as tested using a voltmeter, ohmmeter, ammeter and a meg-ohmmeter?
If that's the case, then I'd suspect a poor fuseblock connection causing the fuse to get hot under an electrical load and opening. That can quickly be revealed by doing some strategic voltage drop tests across the fuseblock...or by getting a temperature sample of the connections while under load through the use of an IR thermometer or a thermal imaging camera. Any one of those three devices will certainly reveal a faulty fuseholder connection.
If you have NONE of these items of test equipment or the knowledge of how to use them, then you need to call a service company to diagnose your problem.
Are you referring to the block behind the right post and swing door or the one on the swing panel? Or the transformer block.
I took a geography lesson.
Here's the fuse locations. Tank heating element fuses circled in GREEN. Transformer fuses circled in RED:
I have the same problem with my STPCW-30 dishwasher from Stero.
Don't ask me about it, because If I get started I can't stop. All I am going to do is share 2 thermal pictures of the fuses .
Okay, I am gonna say it. They designed the control box out of stainless steel, put 6 tiny louvers in the front for "circulation" or "coolness" not sure which. Then insulation started burning up, contactors, burning up everything was burning up. I specced out new wires, fancy thermoglass insulated high temp wire so it can last in the box, new and higher rated contactors, replaced fuse blocks, power distributors etc. Its just crazy.
First of all, Its a stainless box, welded seams, like almost no air circulation whatsoever, throw a bunch of components in it along with 3 separate heating circuits, 1 block is 35, the other is 60. I set of those for each tank with a heater, there are 3 tanks with heaters. fuses mount onto the contactor.... Now why on earth would you put that in a box with no air? But no. They also had to put the box directly above the hottest section of the machine, the final rinse where 180* + water is sprayed. Where the the 6" air gap between the 140-160* stainless machine to the control box is not sufficient to keep the heat away from the electrical box.
The pictures above were for me to prove that my stuff was overheating. Then I went and installed digital thermometers in the control boxes and on average, the control box is 140* ambient air temp inside the box.............................
I called Stero gave them all this info, proposed a new design. "Oh yeah, we put the box on top of the machine instead of below, too many back pain complaints" ARE YOU JOKING?!
"No, no, that's what we did. Your not the first to complain though, your idea has been done in the field by others already to solve it"
'bout ready to explode. Slapped some computer cooling fans over the louvers and its been better but its still way too hot. Who would design something with electrical components operating in 140* ambient air temp? Just imagine the contacts and fuses they must be at least 180* when they are drawing.
Not to hijack the thread but your problem could also be related to thermal management, mine blow sporadically, 99% of the time, its the heat weakening them, I check my amp draws every month on the machine and ohm out the contactors.
Fuses are not supposed to be in high temp, they blow when they get too hot so throw in a hot box and some overheating contacts and you got fuses blowing right and left for no apparent reason.
Oh, and let me guess. The control transformer drops the voltage down to 120V from 208 or 240?
Thank you for all the input. After tearing into the unit I discovered that from the lack of maintenance, the 1 element (3 elements in one) was so encased in residue that it was either shorting out or over heating. After a thorough cleaning ...problem solved.
Makes sense, the booster is right behind the fuse block. Bet you had a good time getting all the minerals out.
Oh well, I guess all my ranting was for nothing then lol
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