Supposed to be able to get grill to 550F , brand new thermostat only going to 410F
I have not dealt with this particular model but I am assuming its a capillary tube type thermostat and probably the same type as what Vulcan uses, as they also go to 550F.
What are you using to measure the temperature?
Imperial part number is 36015
Used infra red and grill surface thermostat with same readings
Not like the BJ style thermostats, they are easy to calibrate
In that case, I would just calibrate it then, I guess. Never dealt with them so wouldn't know. If something gets whacky, just revert.
You said Grill, Do you mean Griddle?
fixbear, I do that too sometimes. Grill just falls right out of my mouth. Unless they have an actual GRILL (like a char-grill), usually there's no question. Besides, I've never seen a char-grill operated by a thermostat.
Exactly what I was getting to. Never seen a grill with a thermostat. Now let's get to the problem.
If the griddle has been removed improperly, the thermostat heat guard is probably damaged or gone. Them the sensing will keep the grill lower than set temp. How close is the set temp at lower settings? Most Griddles only run in the 365 to 375 range to prevent coking of the oil.and a carbon buildup on the grill. Wrong knob?
Now, with a cold griddle, a call for heat to say 350, does the flame have correct mixture and full? As it warms it will drop to a lower setting nearing the set temp. Observe and watch for a quick cycling. If it comes to temp and then drops to low flame add water to the griddle (load). Flame should come back up to full or near full.and drop back as the water evaporates. You have now confirmed that the thermostat is functioning correctly.
If you really want 550 out of you griddle, be prepared for premature cracks and warp-age. Oh yea, erosion on the bottom too.
550°F DOES seem like an unusually high griddle temperature.
Never seen one either. From Teddington's description sheet, I see it's what they call a combination valve.
In THEIR context of a combination valve, it's a temperature control with a pilot safety built in. So I guess this thing is similar to a SIT (EURO-SIT) valve, except the Teddington has a bypass flame like a BJ or FD. In other words, it's a throttle-action instead of snap-action type of tstat.
I hope its similarities to a SIT valve ends there - with their common feature of incorporating a PSV. SIT valves can't be calibrated and are e-x-t-r-e-m-e-l-y fragile. I hope to never have to replace another.
Anyway, you said your Teddington is new. I take you installed it? One thing that comes to mind (besides it already being a faulty part) is the mounting of the sensing bulb under the griddle plate. If it not mounted correctly and is somehow sensing heat directly off a burner's flame (instead of the plate's actual temp), then it will cycle at lower temperatures than desired. In some instances where I've seen such a faulty install, the thermostat will short-cycle (on-off-on-off, etc.) relatively rapidly at that undesirably lower temperature - as the flame comes and goes.
Just something to check.
I once installed a thermostat with the capillary tube in the wrong place, it had a slot cutout under the griddle plate where it was supposed to go through and I just did not pay attention to i. Got called back a week later and found the tube had snapped in half... woops.
Thought I would share it, it happens sometimes. haha
Yup. Been there and done that. I'm sure I'll do it again while DELICATELY hefting around another several-hundred-pound slab of steel in order to replace a dainty little tstat.
Griddles are a PITA.
Been there, done that. Learn to carry wooden wedges to assist in placing the griddle back in place. Especially a 72 inch one.
fixbear wrote: Been there, done that.
Been there, done that.
I said that first.
Haha, happy to know I am not alone
I am dreading the day one of my 2 72" griddle need me to lift the top, I changed out 2 of them and was able to do it without weightlifting the steel plate.
For some reason I always called a flat top a grill
Thanks for responses , it was one of my techs that installed it(25 plus years experience) and he really despises
the SIT controls and teddington thermostats
Bulb in proper, gets to 410F shuts down to minimum flame setting
We did just receive calibration instructions from factory which involve turning nut that is mounted
right underneath manifold 1/64", tech saw that and just shook his head
Normally we would't even try to calibrate thermostat more than 75 degrees out of calibration but factory says it should work
I'll try to update when we do this next week
Hot top explains a lot.That's why the high temp.
Steel at 550 is bad enough, a grill, with cast iron everywhere, pff. that would suck.
My salamander gives me enough trouble as it is.
Ok, now that we have established it as a hot top, be aware they are made to be a gradual temp difference from the front center to the back outsides. Speed heat in the front center and simmer in the back corners. Where did you get the 410 measurement?
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